
RV-1 • 13
[ ] 47. Install C6, another .005uF ceramic capacitor (marked 5nF, .005, or
502).
[ ] 48. Install R7, another 39K resistor (orange-white-orange).
[ ] 49. Install C7, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked 103 or .01)
[ ] 50. Install R34, a 100K resistor (brown-black-yellow).
[ ] 51. Install R13, a 4.7K resistor (yellow-violet-red).
[ ] 52. Install R8, a 33K resistor (orange-orange-orange).
[ ] 53. Install C1, a 470pF ceramic capacitor (marked 470 or 471).
You have just completed the lowpass circuit which filters out most of the
frequencies above 3KHz.
[ ] 54. Install R9, a 100K resistor (brown-black-yellow).
[ ] 55. Install R3 a 100K resistor (brown-black-yellow).
[ ] 56. Install R17, a 470K resistor (yellow-violet-yellow). Be careful not to
install it where JMP5 goes.
[ ] 57. Install R20, 10K resistor (brown-black-orange).
[ ] 58. Install R32, a 2 ohm resistor (red-black-gold).
[ ] 59. Install C18, a .1uF ceramic capacitor (marked .1 or 104). This
capacitor combined with R32 prevents the power amp from becoming
a very loud oscillator, which would be good if we were building a siren
kit! Not so good in a reverb kit.
[ ] 60. Install C16, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Pay close attention to it's
orientation again.
[ ] 61. Install C10, another 10uF electrolytic capacitor.
[ ] 62. Install C15, a 220uF electrolytic. This capacitor is used to prevent DC
from being applied to a speaker from your audio amp, but allows the
AC audio signal to pass right through. This is the same purpose as
that for C2, C4, C13, C10, and the next part, C12.
[ ] 63. Install C12, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor.
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